Lorraine DePasque is a contributing writer for INSTORE and INDESIGN. She is also a freelance journalist who has covered the fine jewelry industry for more than two decades. Having seen thousands of collections, met thousands of artisans, schlepped through hundreds of trade shows, judged hundreds of design competitions, and writtten several thousand jewelry articles, she has one simple request: “Please don’t tell me something is innovative when it isn’t.”
This fall, in my blogs, I’ve pointed to three key jewelry trends taking shape at this time, which are sure to be big for spring: big hoop earrings, modern tribal designs, and seventies inspired styles—pretty much in that order, too. Well . . . thank you, Angelina—this morning, in my e-mail inbox, I saw a photo of Ms. Jolie, at an event several weeks ago, wearing a gigantic pair of thin gold hoops, which really epitomizes all three trends.
Since the Las Vegas jewelry shows, I’ve been making mental notes about new collections I’m seeing that focus on gems with honey hues—especially citrine. While citrine’s far from uncommon in mass produced lines, it’s been somewhat surprising to see it spotlighted by an exceeding number of artisanal brands. In fact, from my recollection, it’s probably more than a decade since the sunny, affordable gem has brightened so many luxe market lines.
Since last year when Deco very much dominated both jewelry and fashion, I’ve been waiting (sort of patiently) for the next aesthetic to arrive. And so it has: “Sophisticated Tribal.” On Wednesday night, as Paris Fashion Week’s final curtain descended, I realized we’d be seeing a great deal of modern primitive this spring. And, as it turns out, it’s a direction I’ve been spotting in jewelry previews at least since early summer.
Despite Milan’s obsession with Seventies style during its Spring 2015 Fashion Week—and, yes, that means super-huge hoops likely on their way in—I want to emphasize the continuing importance of big studs. Even if we see hoop earrings the size worn by Cher during that decade, large studs will co-exist. And quite comfortably, may I add. (FYI, for anyone unfamiliar with those Cher ϋber-hoops, take a look at the photo here. How cool was (is) she, right?)
Casual observers of London Fashion Week, which comes to a close today, may not have noticed the strong Eastern inspired aesthetic weaving through some collections—Marchesa, particularly, was outstanding. But those who watched closely (as I did, of course), may also have thought about the Asian themes and styling that continues to escalate in fine jewelry. Truly, I can’t remember a year when I’ve seen so many Buddhas, plum blossoms, and lace-like carved jades. But then, as if to put an exclamation point on the all-things-Eastern trend, several days ago, the big announcement came about “Chinese Whispers: Tales of the East in Art, Film and Fashion.”